Platform shoe and method of making the same



March 27, 1951 CHANDLER 2,546,152

PLATFORM SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed April 28, 1948 2Sheets-Sheet 1 [nventar J. D. CHANDLER PLATFORM SHOE AND METHOD OFMAKING THE SAME March 27, 1951 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed April 28, 1948Ill/[Ill fm/enzar James D. Chandler Patented Mar. 27, 1951 PLATFORM SHOEAND IVIETHOD OF MAKING THE'SAME James D. Chandler, "Sivampscott; Mass;-assignor' to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flem ington,.-N; J 4aporporationlof New Jersey Application April-28', 1948', Srial-No; 23,688

8 Claims. (Cl..12- -142) 1 This invention relates to shoes and the manufacture "thereof and is illustrated herein :with particular reference toso-called: slip-lasted" shoes having pla'tformsoles anw tolimethods of?making-such shoes.

In the manufacture of- :slip-lasted :shoes ofzthe type referred toitisiuthe usual practice at thepresent time to stitch the-margins pf aflexible insole or seek lining; a prefitte'd upper and a platform coverorwrapper :strip r together while the parts are un-supported-bwa 'lastby a'seam located adjacent to the: edges of the shoe parts." A-la'stisthen insertedintothe-upper tou'slip last the shoe and shape theupperto theouter: surfaceo f the last;- By this procedure itlis sometimes:diflicultto 'obtai-n an accurately constructed and well formedshoe-because the se'am rreferred to, having been inserted while th'e:parts were'still 'off a a last, may not al-Wayslie inamniform positionrelatively to theieather-line-of therla'st'around the entireshoe-botto'mafter": the lasti hasbeen inierteds In other: words, l the yield or"stretch of the parts due to slip lasting,- 'particu1arly the. flexibleinsole or: sockliningyis not always -uni"-'-, form at all portions whenthelast is inserted and, accordingly, this-seam;- =whi'ch is thev mainseam of-the finished shoe, may vary heightwise relas, tively to the edgefacesr-pf' the soleimembers and the adjoining upper at different; pointsaround theperiphery of the shoe bottom;

Another difficulty which sometimes'rarises :in

the shoe parts pulling orictearin'giawayfrom the I stitches'a't someportionspf theshoe bottom ;dur--" ing the constant strainsxtoiwhichtheshoe is sub-i: jectedv during wear. 1

An. object of the .presentinvention. iSJ-IO' provide:

animproved method :of' makingaslip lasted shoes of the platform typeireferred toiin which :thedifificultieszenumeratede aboveareeliminate'dor substantially reduced.

To this endgth'e invention provide'sysin'accord ancevwith onem aspect;an vimprovedt method. tots.

By. locating. the stitches r so i making platformshoes in thepractice'of'which' the stiches securing the shoe partsutogether'are'located in an accurately predetermined relation to" the shoe 'bottom' orsole member, illustrated herein as a platform sole, said stitches be ngalso located a sufii'cient distance from the edges of the shoe parts toeliminate the danger of any of the parts pulling away from the stitchesduring the wearing of the shoe; Ashereinillustrated, a sock lining isfirst secured in'proper positonon the inner surface ofthe'platform sole,thereby definitely establishingthe relative positions of these parts inthe finished shoe: The platform sole is then rabbeted around theinnerportion 'of' its margin below the sockliningythereby causing themargin of the sock lining'to project beyond the edge'iofrtheinner'surface of the platform sole and overlie the rabbet.

The upper and a platform cover or. wrapper strip are next stitched tothe projecting portion of" the sock lining overlying the rabbet'bystitches passing through the wrapper strip; upper and sock linngonlyy'the stitches being located sub stantially atth'e inner "edge orcorner of the platform sole withoutpenetrating the platform sole,itself.: In this way, the stitches forming the main scam in the shoe areaccurately located in a fixed predetermined relation to the platformsole and they are also inserted far enoughaway from the edges of thestitched parts'to eliminate any danger of'the parts tearingaway from thestitches during the wearing of the shoe, even though some or all of theparts may be composed of relatively thin weak material such as cottoncloth or other fabric. Since the platform sole has a rabbet formedtherein,: the stitched margins, in accordance with the present method,are caused, when the wrapper strip is turned, to enter the rabbet andsubstantially fill the same,

thereby preventing the formation of a bulge or ridge around the marginof the inner orfoot-engaging surface of the finished shoe. The accuracyof' the location'of the stitches, relatively to the edge face-of thesole portion ofthe shoe, en-

? hances the appearance of the shoe and increases its value andpopularappeal as compared with other shoes of this general type. Finally, sincethe stitches which secure the shoe parts together do not penetrate orpass through any portion of the platform sole, they are cheaper to makeand easier to insert than stitches which do pass through'the platformsolel- Moreover, they re'-- quire less skill'onthe part of the operatorand thereby further reduce the expense ofmaking the shOGL In accordancewith a modification of the invention, the present method also providesfor securing a strip or tape around the marginal portion only of theplatform sole, instead of covering its entire inner surface with aflexible insole or sock lining as described above, the method then beingcarried out by rabbeting the margin of the platform sole below the stripor tape, as previously explained, and sewing the upper and a wrapperstrip to the projecting portion of the tape overlying the rabbet bystitches located substantially at the inner edge or corner of theplatform sole and passing through the wrapper strip, upper and tapewithout penetrating the platform sole, thereby producing a shoe havingthe same features and advantages as the first shoe but being lessexpensive to make owing to the substitution of the relatively narrowstrip of tape for the full size sock lining which is usually com posedof fairly thick canvas but is often composed of even more expensivematerial such as upper leather.

With the above and other objects and aspects in view, the invention willnow be described in detail in connection with the accompanying drawingsand will thereafter be pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is an enlarged sectional view of a portion of a platform solehaving a sock lining se Fig. 3 is a sectional view showing an upperbeing stitched off a last to the margin of the sock lining;

Fig. 4 is a similar view showing a wrapper strip being stitched to theupper and sock lining;

Fig. 5 illustrates the shoe after the wrapper strip has been turneddownwardly and the united margins of the sock lining, upper and wrapperstrip have been bent into the rabbet;

Fig. 6 shows the shoe with the wrapper strip turned inwardly and securedto the bottom surface of the platform sole;

Fig. '7 is a sectional view of the shoe after a last has been insertedand an outsole attached;

Fig. 8 is a sectional view, similar to Fig. 1, illustrating amodification of the invention in which a strip or tape, instead of asock lining, is secured to the marginal portion only of the innersurface of the platform sole;

Fig. 9 shows the platform sole of Fig. 8 after it has been rabbetedbelow the tape;

Fig. 10 shows an upper and a wrapper strip being secured to the outermargin of the tape;

Fig. 11 illustrates the shoe with the wrapper strip turned and securedto the bottom surface of the platform sole; and

- Fig. 12 is a sectional view of the shoe after a last has been insertedand an outsole attached.

In practicing the method of making platform shoes in accordance with thepresent invention a conventional platform sole 2B is provided preferablycomposed of thick yielding material, such as felt, cork, or similarmaterial, the platform sole having a sock lining 22 of thin flexiblematerial, such as upper leather, canvas or the like, secured to itsentire inner surface, preferably by cement, with the edges of the socklining and platform sole located in substantial alinement or flush witheach other, as shown in Fig. l. The platform sole is preferably died outor cut to shape from a single laminated layer of material although theparts could of course, if desired, be died out separately and thensecured together in a second operation.

The platform sole 29 is next rabbeted around its marginal or edgeportion to remove a substantially rectangular section from said edgeportion and leave a rabbet 24 extending around the inner portion of thesole margin below the sock lining 22, thereby causing the marginalportion of the sock lining, indicated at 26, to extend beyond the edgeof the inner surface of the platform sole and overlie the rabbet 24. lheplatform sole may be rabbeted with the aid of any conventional rabbetingor sole channeling machine which is adapted to remove a rectangularsection from the inner margin of the sole, as illustrated in Fig. 2, theremoved section preferably being of substantial width and approximatelytwo-thirds as high as the thickness of the sole.

After the platform sole has been rabbeted, an upper 28 is assembled onthe sock lining 22 with the lower edge of the upper in substantialalinement with the edge of the sock lining, as illustrated in Fig. 3.The upper is stitched to the portion of the sock lining which overliesthe rabbet 24 while the parts are still unsupported by a last and aremaintained in this registered position. In stitching the parts togetheroff a last in this manner, it is desirable to insert the stitches fairlyclose to the inner or rabbeted edge of the platform sole in order thatthey will not be located too near the edges of the sock lining and upperand thus weaken the shoe and also, as will presently appear, in order topermit other stitches to be inserted, located even closer to the edge ofthe inner surface of the platform sole. While the stitching operationmay be performed by any conventional sewing machine adapted to stitchfiat parts together in face-to-face relation, a machine particularlyadapted for performing this operation in the practice of the presentmethod is disclosed in an application for United States Letters PatentSerial No. 23,841 filed concurrently with the present application in thename of A. S. Clark which has matured into a patent having Patent No.2,542,993 granted Feb. 2'7, 1951. As illustrated in Fig. 3, the machineof the co-pending application is provided with a curved needle 39 andthe usual cooperating stitch-forming instrumentalities, including acurved awl (not shown), a looper, a thread hook and so forth. It is alsoprovided with a rabbet gage 32, a work support 33, and a presser foot 34which acts to clamp the work against the support and release it duringeach sewing cycle of the machine. As illustrated in Fig. 3 by a brokenline A, the curved path of the needle 30 passes through a cutout portionof the rabbet gage 32, the upper surface of which is set to engage andsupport the undersurface of the sock lining 22, as shown in Fig. 3,thereby leaving the small space below the gage. The arrangement is suchthat the gage 32 enters into engagement with the inner or setbacksurface of the rabbet at either side of the curved path of the needle,thereby insuring that the edge of the platform sole, including theportion below the rabbet, will be held out of the path of the needle.The ease thus prevents stitches from being inserted in the yielding orcompressible material of the platform sole. The upper 23 is secured tothe extending margin 26 of the sock lining 22 by stitches 36, as shownin Fig. 3.

escapees-1 edgesoiuthe uppenand: sockalining-tas illustrated lasteb'Stitches?! floicate i L edge the; iinnenagsurfaceaofw the;platforms-sole; and. passingethroughlthezaofiptheowrapper:

string; upper;-:zand:.r3sockzMining: inwardly; of; :the;

stitches" 36 ifix-usedewvithout;penetratingetheo plate? form soleitself, that is, withoutzpassingztlnough the:n materiale ofiathe;:platfommxsole .gadjapentirito Ont-underlying. stheirabbeizai 4 111.20theniwords; in; accordance with r the presentxmethod the. wrap-i per.;uppenx:and"soclcziliningsare stitchedztogether; =1ast; by'sti-tcheszsinsentemz; substantially pat the.:connerrrlooatedziatx theinnex: 'suriacexiofinthea sole! formedubyathexrabbt,-'24; the;stitchesbeing inserted," however rinzsuch': smanneruthat: theydomnotzpenetratezzany part ofottheuplatformzsole,

itself, iincltidingiathezrlaterallyi gextendingeportionunderlyingxthezlrabbet 24:.v Sincezthe; stitches;- securin'giathewrapp.er.=':strip;runner; anchsock ,lim 1 ing together are inserted in;a:.apredetermined:

position .relativelyaz to ztheiawdifiininggb egreason i cause .the socklining: isigpermanently secured to;- the; inner: surf-acacia theaepla-tf ormr 50.18;"; it will Joe;

clear, "has; indicated rabove; that: the aseam which;exte'ndsivaround;athe;aperipheryof the. platform sole! =in:.;theefin'ished eshoe eande- .overw which the wrapper; strip isisubsequentlyturned in zcomplete, ing, the =shoe-,=;namely,;;- theaseami 40, -will beace? curately :loca tedin raa s;l.pr edetermined "uni-form; position:relatively togthe sedge); faieee Ofi thevP B tI-r form sole; around:the. entire shoe bottom -in=the1 finished-=shoe.=:- Intsot-hemwords,thereswill :be-nO': variation-fin the: heightwise-positim eizthi-a seamrelatively; to theuedge- "f ace vof; the: platform'isole; as;sometimessioccurs in other. types: of l-o-platform shoes',l. dueto thefact that' the seam securingthe shoe;- parts togetherewas not z-defi-nitelyi established relatively 1 to. M, :thesplatiorm-s sole: efore'::the .:last wassinserteds. AccordinglywinI-the: pgesent shoe the 15018;"portion E oil,- the; shoe; opposite themedge facerofiitheplatform solewill be uniform-in width onzheight: completely; amumt the'l shoebottomsl the; platforms After; theaupper'; and iwralmei'e strips have" been.

secured litO, .theg-isockzlliningg in theemanner-idee, scribed; .Ltheifrappersstrip, n itacooridancez vwith thepresent, methodisreiturned.downwardiy: around theseam A ll ipreferablyi while the shoeis-stillnoffr'a llastli-das illustrated-min lFigt-fiith r by fr 6 Mmenti-f4 Zeialthough other 1f asteningimeanszssuch as:i-:staples=:;orvtacksiaconldxbea :llSBflLiif LdBSiIZGdri.Afteratheizwrappenmaslbeenrlastetl,:a last-144i s1; inserted intoie thessh'oe z; as. illustrated :inrFignflL-u therebyislipulastingi theshoe'iimaccordance with"? 31165211511351 zpfpracticeiaof making: ;-;platformrshoeszs An ".zoutsoler :4 6 z-is; attached I to" :tlIe-sinturnedapMe:tion'got athe. wrapperastripfifiz tozicomplete :the. cone; structionsofsthewhoeisthe. outsolefaprefevably. Joe-s.

.- ingrattachedeitoythe shoebottom-rby' cements; It mightbe desirableinsome cases;xpartioularly' inttheacheaperrgrades of shoes iIIIWhiOhLGCQHOmYJ is an importantfactor, :to make a slip lasted: plate;

form shoe. inaccordancecwith the, present method; 1 andbtlms :obtain thevadvantagesvinistrength rand,

accuracygzabovereferred; to; butxtoueconomize .in,

materialsgandqtherebyvlrenderzzthe; shoe ,cheaxperi tot-manufacture:Toffmeet such aecontin gency, the :pnesentinvention provides; aamodificationofl the: method illustratedrrin Figs; 1 ,toll'l, inclusive;

theacmodificationbeing. :shown in Figs. 8 -to ::12,i inclusive. Inaccordance withxthis vaspect :of @the. method; a :conventional.p1atform.-.solei:2 0 is-i -prm; viclecl caofrthick flexible? material:cut .,to proper shape; ;.as LflESCI'ibd above. Instead. of. coveringthe; entire innensurfac'e? of the platform :sole with: arlayertofiv-thinflexible material suclriasssa'sock lining-of: upper-leather; canvas or.othere'ia'bric; material; which .in?s0m'e:' cases;involveszconsiden-eable expense, a relatively. narrow strip :of. tape 50 isizattached' to413116 inargin a'hportiompnly iofzthe irmerisuriace of: the; platform:s0le,- as illustrated in Fig. 8,,the tape 50 beingscomposed ofthinleathergor. canvas or, if desired, ;of-;;cheapere fabi ricmaterialcsuchaszcottona; .The1tapei5B is pref e'ri-zahlylse'cured. to' the:marginal-rportiontof the inner surfacei-vof: the; platformw sole by.tti'zmrows: ofthiiough-and-through stitches .52; '54:. although;itco111d if desired,. .be "secured,- by, :a single? row ofstitchesreiniorced-rby cementor by.-a single row oiistitchesalone: As.iillustrated...in Fig; 8; the outer: margin of: the tape :58sisicoextensive with the; marginal portion'ofi the; platform sole sotha-tthe edges ofr; theatape; and sole areimsubstantiat alinement. "1

The; platform-soleais'rabbeted around thetinner portion 10f itsmargimbelow .the :tape 25W to pro-'- ducet'a rabbe't 24: in :the;manner-a described.above, the :outer portion- :of the:tapezthenaprojecting bet-r yond the-winner -.;corner: of the :platform:sole. and overlyingetherabbet$24.2 vThe upper 28 and wrap-' per! strip;"38/ :are then:rassemblecl :and positioned: againstt thenouter margin101: the stripfor. tape 5E) With thei lower edges oftrithe; parts insubstantial alinement', 1 as. illustrated .in Fige110i,and thellp ipen-and; wrapper striparesecured touthe'ttape 'by stitches; 40, asdescribed above; preferably with the" aidsof; the" sewing machinereierreohto asi il-i lustrateit-in'gFigsz 3 :ancleeia; AsishownzinFig-.r:l0, the ."stitchesa-gd 0: arexlocated' substantiallylatz theinnerredge or :corner of:theeplatformasoleii0 'ancla pass .throughthewrapperrstrigeupper.andxtape Elbvwithout; penetrating the::platformusola; the stitchesbeinginserted bytheeuryedz needle whichtravels in an are indicated in Fig. 10 by the broken: linezrBi'and.whiohmermits: thez nee die; to clean the laterally extendinglowenportion of; the-platform sole below the rabbet Z hwithout penetratingsuchportion, thereby causing; the stitches tO-ibe inserted. ,iwithoutpassing through any, portion of then-platform s0le.- Thewrapper-stripfiil isrthen turned ,Whilethe; shoe. ;is. stillunsupported- .by a lastanol is wipedinwardlyundenthe bottom sureface ofthe platform sole,and-.securedethereto by cement 42.7

Since the inner surface of the platform sole 20, in accordance with thepresent aspect of the method, is not covered with a sock lining over itsentire area, as in the first-mentioned procedure, but is covered only atits marginal portion by the narrow strip or tape 59, it might bedesirable at this point in the present modification to cover the entireinner surface of the platform sole with a thin layer of flexiblematerial similar to a sock lining but composed of cheaper material, suchas fabric or thin canvas, in order to conceal the innor portion of thestrip 50, which would otherwise show inside the shoe, and thus produce afinished appearance in the completed shoe. The layer 22 illustrated inFig. 11 can, therefore, be provided, composed of relatively cheaptextile material and being inserted into the shoe while the shoe isstill off a last, the layer 22 being secured to the inner surface of theplatform-sole by cement, thereby covering the portion of, the tape i]which extends inwardlyfrom the upper 28 and would show in the finishedshoe. The last 44 is now inserted into the shoe to slip last the shoeand shape the upper to the contour of the last in accordance with theusual practice of making slip lasted shoes. The outsole 88 is attachedto the inturned portion of the wrapper strip in the usual manner,preferably by cement 38, thereby completing the construction of theshoe. As illustrated in Fig. 12, the outsole ii: is made of such sizethat its edge face is substantially flush with the outer or exposedsurface of the wrapper strip 38.

It Willbe seen from Figs. 11 and 12, that the combined marginal portionsof the tape, upper and, Wrapper strip are of such width that theysubstantially fill the rabbet 2 5 and their lower edges, which are insubstantial alinement with each other, engage the upwardly facingsurface of the rabbet. Since the stitches 4d are positioned uniformlywith respect to the edge of the platform sole 20 around the entire shoebottom, the exposed portion of the wrapper strip 38 extending betweenthe outsole and the upper will be of uniform width or height completelyaround the shoe bottom, thereby enhancing the appearance of the shoe. Asindicated above, since the stitches 4B are spaced a substantial distancefrom the edges of the stitching tape 59, upper and wrapper strip, andalso since the marginal portions of these parts outwardly of thestitches do not need to be trimmed as in some platform shoes becausethey fit into the rabbet 2 3, it follows that there is no danger in thepresent shoe of the stitches, which form the main seam and secure theshoe parts together, pulling out of the materials because inserted tooclose to the edges thereof or because the shoe has been trimmed tooclose to the stitches after the latter have been inserted. Consequently,the present platform shoe will not only present a pleasing appearancebecause of the accuracy of its construction, but will also be strongerthan many shoes of this type due to the location and arrangement of thestitches.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consistsin securing a layer of thin flexible material to the inner surface of aplatform sole with the marginal portionsof said layer and solesubstantially coextensive, rabbeting the marginal portion of theplatform sole below said flexible layer thereby causing said layer tooverlie the rabbet, and securing an upper and a wrapper strip to theportion of said flexible layer overlying the rabbet by stitches locatedsubstantially at the edge of the platform sole and passing through saidwrapper strip, upper and flexible layer without penetrating the platformsole.

2. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consistsin securing a layer of thin flexible material to the inner surface of aplatform sole with the margin of said layer overlying the margin of theplatform sole, rabbeting the margin of the inner portion of the platformsole below the layer of flexible material, thereby causing said layer toproject beyond the platform sole and overlie the rabbet, and securing anupper and a platform wrapper strip off a last to the portion of theflexible layer overlying the rabbet without securing said upper andwrapper strip to the platform sole.

3. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consistsin securing a sock lining to the inner surface of a platform sole withthe edges of said members in substantial alinement, rabbeting the marginof the platform sole below the sock lining thereby causing the socklining to overlie the rabbet, and securing an upper and a wrapper stripto the portion of the sock lining which overlies the rabbet by fasteningmeans located substantially at the adjacent edge of the rabbet andpassing through the wrapper strip, upper and sock lining withoutpenetrating the platform sole.

a. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes'whi'ch consistsin securing a sock lining to the inner surface of 'a platform sole withthe margin of the sock lining projecting beyond the adjacent edge of theplatform sole, assembling an upper and a wrapper strip on the platformsole with the edges of the upper, wrapper strip and sock lining insubstantial alinement, and sewing the upper and wrapper strip off a lastto the projecting portion of the sock lining along a line locatedsubstantially at the adjacent edge of the platform sole, the stitchespassing through the wrapper strip, upper and Seek lining but notpenetrating the platform sole, thereby locating the upper and wrapperstrip permanently in predetermined relation to the platform sole withoutsecuring them to said sole.

5. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consistsin cementing a sock lining of thin flexible material to the innersurface of a platform sole with the marginal portions of said memberssubstantially coextensive, rabbeting the margin of the inner portion ofthe platform sole below the sock lining, thereby causing the sock liningto project beyond the edge of the sole and overlie the rabbet, andstitching an upper "and a wrapper strip off a last to the projectingportion of the sock lining with the edges of said upper and wrapperstrip in substantial alinement with the edge of the sock lining, thestitches being located substantially at the inner edge of the rabbet andpassing through the wrapper strip, upper and sock lining withoutpenetrating the portion of the platform sole which underlies the rabbet.

6. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consistsin securing a sock lining to the inner surface of a platform sole withthe edges of said members in substantial alinement, rabbeting the marginof the platform sole below the sock lining, thereby causing the latterto project beyond the edge of the platform sole and overlie the rabbet,stitching an upper off a last to the portion of the sock lining whichoverlies the rabbet with the edges of the sock lining and upper insubstantial alinement, the stitches being located adjacent to the edgeof the platform sole and passing through the upper and sock liningwithout penetrating the platform sole, and stitching a Wrapper strip tothe upper and sock lining with the edge of the wrapper strip insubstantial alinement with the edges of the upper and sock lining, thestitches being located inwardly of the first-named stitchessubstantially at the inner edge of the rabbet and" passin through thewrapper strip, upper and'sock lining without penetrating the platformsole, thereby locating said stitches a substantial distance inwardly ofthe edge face of the platform sole without passing through said sole.

7. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consistsin permanently securing a strip of thin flexible material to themarginal portion only of a platform sole with the edges of the strip andsole in substantial alinement, rabbeting the margin of the platform solebelow the flexible strip thereby causing said strip to project beyondthe edge of the sole and overlie the rabbet, and stitching an upper anda wrapper strip to the portion of said flexible strip which overlies therabbet with the edges of said upper and wrapper strip in, substantialalinement with the edge of the flexible strip, the stitches beinglocated substantially at the inner edge of the rabbet in the platformsole and passing through the wrapper strip, upper and flexible stripwithout penetrating the platform sole,

8. The method of making platform shoes which comprises securing a socklining to the inner surface of a platform sole with the edges of saidparts in substantial alinement, rabbeting the margin of the platformsole below the sock lining thereby causing the sock lining to extendbeyond the edge of the platform sole and overlie the rabbet, stitchingan upper and a wrapper strip off a last to the portion of the socklining overlying the rabbet with the edges of the upper and wrapperstrip in substantial alinement with the edge of the sock lining, thestitches passing through the wrapper strip, upper and sock liningsubstantially at the inner edge of the rabbet in the platform solewithout passing through the material of said sole adjacent to saidrabbet, turning the wrapper strip downwardly over the edge of theplatform sole thereby bending the stitched margins of the sock lining,upper and wrapper strip into said rabbet, Wiping the wrapper stripinwardly beneath the bottom surface of the platform sole and securing itto said surface, inserting a last into the shoe, and attaching anoutsole to the inwardly extending portion of the wrapper strip.

JAMES D. CHANDLER.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS

